Zumaia, Spain 2015

Zumaia, Spain 2015

Tuesday, October 8, 2019

Colores Del Camino

8 October 
Cadavedo, Asturias
Astur Regal Casa Rural

I love the playful house colors in Northern Spain. 

For example…



















Now this is an orange house. Or maybe you would call it creamsicle. 




Sunday, October 6, 2019

Las Coches Viejas and Puppies

Sunday 29 September 
Departing Santillana 
Busamino to Comillas
Walk to San Vicente de la Barquera 

El Domingo is a day for antique cars in Northern Spain. 




...and also for puppies. 

Starting out walking today in Camillas. 






An interesting breed of cattle. 


Could it be...


A beach bar, and a perfect place for lunch!




More unbelievable pastoral views of the sea


Beginning to see San Vicente with a backdrop of the Picos. 









San Vicente to Llanes

Monday 30 September 
San Vicente to Llanes 

Took the train from San Vicente de la Barquera to...


...Pendueles and began my walk here today. 


A perfect sandwich between the Picos de Europa...


...and the sea. 


Pretty soon I came upon...

...the Buffones de Arenillas. Best I can understand, they are rocks that have big holes in them as though they were porous long ago. And when the tides are high and strong, water and/or air come through them, making huge geysers and a sound, as my German friend Mark said, “like the breath of a dragon.”




Coming in to Llanes,




...lovey city where I hung out for an extra day of rest. 



Tuesday, October 1, 2019

Santander, or Where is Julio?

27 September
Santander
SilkenRio
Near
Palicio de La Magdalena

The way to Santander from Noja commences with more walking along the autopista (highway), so I let go of my pride and chose to do a Taximino to Galizano since there was no bus or train to there. 

The driver actually complemented me for not walking along the road as we passed numerous Pelegrinos on both sides of the highway. Very dangerous!

It was cooler today, with brisk conditions...


as I greeted surfers and wished them “buenas olas.”


Santander as we approached it from the ferry...


After settling in I walked to the Palicio de La Magdalena, or the site of the filming of Spanish Gran Hotel. If you haven’t watched it yet on Netflix, you are missing a delightful but more campy Spanish version of Downton Abbey.


I was unable to find Julio...


... so I’ll continue on walking one step at a time. 







Sunday, September 29, 2019

Santillana (No) Del Mar

28 September 
Santillana Del Mar
Hotel Altamira 

Up until now all of the towns I’ve stayed in have been on the sea. 

But here the walk turns inland briefly to go through Santillana Del Mar, which is NOT on the sea in spite of its name.

It is a beautiful Medieval town with cobble-stoned streets, well-maintained ancient buildings, and a Romanesque church. 








I attended a mass where I understood very little so I made up my own sermon about God’s love, kindness, and forgiveness.










As I left Gran Hotel in Santander yesterday, skipping and tripping down the path, I did indeed trip and turn my hip. So I was grateful yet again for the bathtub tonight and a chance to soak, rest, and wander in this little town today.


Ferries, Treachery, and Comfort

26 September
Noja, Cantabria
Hosteria Dos Laureles

Out of Laredo and after a stretch of sidewalk walking along the coast, I crossed over to SantoƱa by ferry...


...with, among others, a threesome and a dog...


...then passed houses along the beach...


… to the beginning of a climb over this hill.


I realize it doesn’t look very daunting. But it was so treacherous and dangerous that the expert walker I spoke to next (see Hank below) told me he hadn’t taken pictures for fear of falling off the edge. 


But I really wanted a record of this part of the walk (and am grateful to be telling you about it). 






On the other side, I was so relieved to see the beach and know that I was on the way down. 


Still, caution was imperative until I got down to the nude beach (…with nothing very interesting to report).




On the way into town, I met Hank from the Netherlands. 


He had walked several Caminos and also the Via Francigena which I too had walked in 2017. 

After such a dramatic day of walking, I was relieved to settle into my little Hosteria, so comfortable and welcoming.